Taking to the waves on a traditionally-built, classic vessel; Falmouth’s very own traditional gem – Eve of St Mawes.
Words by Joanna Thomas
The romantic allure of classic sailing has captured the passions of seafarers for centuries. Whether it’s the creak of the wooden deck, the flap of canvas sails or harnessing the natural elements, individuals are still drawn to traditional seamanship.
As Diggory, the skipper of Eve of St Mawes puts it, “Classic sailing is like cricket, there’s a flurry of activity once and a while, but it’s for those who like to be outdoors without working too hard.”
Eve is a 38-foot Gaff Pilot Cutter and her timeless beauty draws many admiring glances around Falmouth Harbour. She is built from wood and all the ropes and brass are reminiscent of a bygone era.
Classic sailing was founded to provide ‘Hands-on traditional sailing’ as opposed to zippy dinghy racing or pleasure cruise. The company offers a range of crewing experiences including those specially for women.
“Some women don’t fancy sleeping so close to a load of men or dealing with any macho pride so ‘Women Go Wild’ was set up.” The skipper Debbie, take the crew around the Fal, and maybe to Fowey, depending on the weather.
Eve has no outboard motor and all the details aboard are crafted to recreate an authentic time-honoured vessel. As one of the crew members said, “I really dig the no engine.”
As a novice sailor I was expecting my first voyage to be a constantly active time of rope pulling, with more competent sailors barking orders using perplexingly obscure sailing lingo. I envisaged returning to shore weather beaten, hands sore and more than a little unpopular. Because, although I know where the bow and stern are, there’s no way I know anything about tacking or reaching and if someone asked me to “trim a sail” I’d start looking a pair of scissors.
However, I was surprised to discover from Diggory that 80% of those who book for the three day cruises have never been sailing before. The majority are solo travellers, from all over the UK, who may want to complete an initial training course or just experience life aboard.
Below deck is charming, with all basic requirements cunningly laid out in a space efficient way. The kettle and stove, tiny wooden cupboards and compact sleeping arrangements took me back to my childhood and playing houses. However, the toilet was less cute and friendly. It’s not easy to negotiate weatherproof over-trousers in a space smaller than half a phone box, with disconcerting splashes (from the sink one hopes) and a big sign informing users how to operate a flush. This turned out to be more dynamic than any aeroplane loo, as you need to sit on the closed lid, pull a large handle several times while all manner of judders and suctions take place beneath you. No wonder the crew cheered when I finally returned on deck with a ‘you survived then?’.
Those who were crewing this time were more experienced sailors, which meant I could watch for a while. I was impressed by Diggory’s relaxed manner as he delivered instructions and obvious in depth knowledge and expertise. He was able to explain the exact reasoning behind each manoeuvre, taking account of the wind direction and setting the sails. It wasn’t long before I was joining in after a shout of ‘mind your heads’ as the boom (length of wood at the base of the mainsail) was pushed across the deck and we started tying and un tying ropes.
It was obvious from the start that this was not meant to be an activity where we got somewhere fast. At a leisurely pace , in water that Diggory called ‘humpy’ we were able to take in the sights and sounds on a stretch of water known as Carrick Roads. Admittedly, the scenery would be stunning on a bright summer’s day, but despite the slight sea mist and drizzle we were able to appreciate the unique nature of this part of Cornwall.
It wasn’t long before I was usefully able to take hold of a piece of rope or two and felt more than comfortable with the all-male crew. Far from being an elusive bunch, using terms that meant I was left out, they naturally dropped names for things in the general flow of conversation. Conversation incidentally, that involved more than a few pirate anecdotes.
The most impressive part for me was doing a heave-to (a boat’s equivalent of and emergency stop) because of the way the boat is so hands-on it is remarkably responsive. Within seconds of getting the instruction we were still and bobbing.
“Very useful for a man overboard,” Diggory explains, “although the hands-on traditional approach we use is a little ‘old salt’ for some.”
It was an intoxicating time, moving at a pace across the water that can best be described as gentle with the sea breeze against my face and the waves pressing the side. I can see now why countless numbers spend their leisure time pottering about on boats.
For those who can’t afford either the time or all the sailing gear, then a package such as the one Classic Sailing has to offer is an ideal alternative. It gives a very real opportunity to sail without the hassle of a boat’s upkeep and with the sure knowledge you are in the capable hands of an experienced skipper.
There’s no doubt I’d choose the classic way as opposed to a mass of fibreglass and plastic. Call me a snob or a hopeless romantic, but you can’t beat the look and the creak of a bit of timber.